7.26.2011

Hell's Canyon: Twice as Deep as the Grand Canyon


Hell's Canyon: Twice as Deep as the Grand Canyon
When you go to North Central Idaho (located below the panhandle and north of… Boise), you go for the outdoors.  This is not spa country.  The restaurants are just OK at best, there are not many fabulous accommodations. We came up here from Boise (about 3 ½ hours), primarily to go on aJet Boat Tour of Hell’s Canyon.  If this video doesn’t convince you to come, nothing will:



To take that video, they dropped me off on a rock by the side of the river.  Seriously.  I wasn't sure how I was going to get back on the boat since I figured he wouldn't be able to maneuver in a way that I could easily climb back on.  After I took the video -- knowing that my husband and two precious kids were on that boat -- the driver maneuvered the boat to within three inches of me and the rock, like he was extending his hand to me.  Incredible.

We decided to take our children, 5 and 7, on a jet boat tour instead of a float down the river.  We figured that since the jet boat was bigger, they would feel more secure.  We didn’t want to get stuck on the river with panicky kids.  We rode with Killgore Adventures– a family run operation.  Kurt, the son, has been piloting the boat for the past ten years.  Kurt’s mom, Heather and his sister, Courtney are deck hands.  Some benefits of taking the tour with Killgore:
  • Perfect safety record
  • Sun cover over the boat (six hours in the blazing sun in Hell’s Canyon would be Hell, truly)
  • Killgore provides the only six hour tour that goes all the way to the Dam at the top of Hell’s Canyon
You will get wet.  Your heart will palpitate.  Your adrenaline will course throughout your body.  

You will have a great time.  

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To get on the boat, you can drive to Pittsburg Landing yourself or you can take the shuttle with Kilgore.  It’s a technical, steep, non-paved road.  It’s doable, but if you are an insecure driver, take the shuttle.  That said, our Prius did fine on the unpaved road.  Killgore provides lunch, water, soda.  

Here’s what you should bring:
  • Hat with a cord so that it doesn’t fly away (it will, my son’s hat did)
  • Sunglasses – for the sun as well as the wind
  • Sunblock – lots of it
  • Camera with video
We made many stops, one at Kirkwood Historic Ranch, and from the boat saw big horn sheep and mountain goats.  Kurt told us to keep an eye out for bears.  Bears?  Mercy.  We saw none.

There was an 87 year old grandmother on our boat (yes, the same boat you saw in the video going through the gnarly rapids) and she was having a grand time getting drenched and contributing to the peels of laughter and screams all around as we went through the rapids.

Hell’s Canyon is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, the Snake River gets to about 69 degrees in the summer (read: swimmable) and the scenery is as rugged as it was when Lewis and Clark laid eyes on it.  It’s true Americana not to be missed in your lifetime.  You will probably only go once, but you must make sure to get there.  It’s a remote part of the world that is truly off the beaten path -- even for Idaho.

After six hours on the river and another 45 minute drive back to the highway, we were beat.  We ate at the ONLY restaurant in White Bird (population: 150): Mac’s Supper Club – best dish was the house smoked BBQ chicken – and went back to our lodging at White Bird Summit Lodge.

Terri Schmitz runs the White Bird Summit Lodge.  She and her husband, Frank, hunt and fish.  If you are an ethical vegetarian (or say, from San Francisco or Carroll Gardens), you might not want to stay here.  There are hundreds of stuffed and mounted animal heads on the wall.  Full animals, too!  From bears to alligators to fish to deer to wild boar to... giraffe.  Truthfully, it took some getting used to.  Surprisingly, my kids’ first insinct was to pet the grizzly bear and poke its claws.


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The place was super clean, Terri cooked a terrific breakfast, (in stark comparison to the local fare) and although we were still a little overwhelmed by the heads (buffalo! mountain goat!), we liked staying there.  The lodge is a bed and breakfast, terrific for groups.  We stayed in a family room with 2 bunk beds, the bottom of one was a double bed.  Best part: the shower had a steam function built in.  I like that -- even in summer.

White Bird Summit Lodge is directly between White Bird and Graingeville, which has, really, no good restaurants. (names omitted to protect the guilty)  Know this: you are not here to eat good food.  You are here to see the stunning scenery and get on the river.  Maybe someday, you will be able to combine the two, but not yet.  Remember, it’s Idaho, not Italy.

Next up: We drive the Northwest Passage Scenic Byway All American Road (they couldn’t make it more pithy?)

Note:  This trip was sponsored by the North Central Idaho Travel Association 

7.20.2011

Rookie Camping: McCall, Idaho

Rookie Camping: McCall Idaho
As we left the Oldtime National Fiddlers’ Contest in Weiser, we drove for a little less than two hours through some of the remotest areas of Idaho to get to McCall. That’s saying something for a State of only 1.6 million.
Initially, we yearned to be in the Ponderosa campground because of its proximity to town – you can ride your bikes there via bike trails. When we neglected to make a reservation (rookies, to be sure) and there was no vacancy, I was miffed.
Still, we went to see if there was a chance of availability and we discovered that the Ponderosa was indeed a busy campground: full of RVs humming with generators and dwarfing the few tents that braved it out. It almost seemed urban. We were turned away.
So we headed north to the Northwest Passage Campground: first come, first served. Hmpht!
It was only a twenty-two campsite campground that was half full! There was a little beach along the river that flowed into the Payette and
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if we wanted to get into town, it was a 5-10 minute drive. No big deal.
Our kids (5 & 7) could ride their bikes around without much supervision, and we walked paths leading into the woods from the campground. Our kids played on the beach with some other little kids. Those kids even shared their sand toys. (see: rookies)  Just glad I remembered bathing suits.
One of the days, we drove into town for lunch. I know, we were camping, but we also wanted to see the town of McCall. Had lunch at Toll Station Pizza and Pastabecause my friend told us there was a good salad bar. She was right. The pizza for the kids was fine – nothing extraordinary. But we’re in Idaho, not Italy – remember. Then we walked around the “downtown.” Not much there, but some shops and a marina next to the “City Beach.”
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Around McCall, there is also a fish hatchery. It’s open to the public, no fee and very interesting for the kids. We saw salmon in all stages: from the tiny ones to the teenagers.   Fun and educational – no official tour: you just walk around and read the signs to your kids. Quickly, because they walk away (the kids, not the fish).
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We spent two nights at the campground this time (a record, for us) and the new item that made it all bearable – the cots! -- because frankly, it was cold, even in June. Yes, I’m an LA woman, thin blood. Instead of sleeping on the ground, we got cots. One third the price of thermarest pads and super comfortable.
On the way back to Boise, we drove 20 minutes out of McCall and then stopped at the Gold Fork Hot Springs, near Donnelly. hotSpringsOne of the most beautifully built out hot springs in Idaho, it’s probably even more delightful when there is snow on the ground. Cost about $25 to get the whole family in and they don’t want you wearing lotion sun screen – only spray. Too lazy to ask why. But they’ll sell you spray at the store. They have ascending pools – from cool to super hot. If you like hot water, you’ll love this place.
McCall to Boise is a little less than a two hour drive and the scenery is stunning.
PS:  My parents just came back from Alaska and when they saw our Red Fish Lake photosfrom a couple of weeks ago, they felt like they schlepped all the way to Alaska for the same scenery.  Pristine mountains, isolated lakes, crisp air -- beautiful American wilderness.  All in the lower 48.  How about that!

7.13.2011

Weiser, Idaho: Chocolate & Fiddles

Weiser, Idaho:  Chocolate & Fiddles

As I mentioned in an earlier post, this is the Summer of Idaho. My family is exploring the glory of Idaho each weekend this summer.

The last weekend in June, we went to Weiser, Idaho (on the Oregon border) to check out the National Oldtime Fiddlers’ Contest. Whenever I asked one of my Boise friends if they had been to the fiddle festival, EVERYONE said, “Oh, I want to do that.” But they still haven’t. Everyone heard it was fun. Get off your asses, my friends. Weiser is only an hour and fifteen minutes from Boise.

7.07.2011

Boise Getaway: Sun Valley/Redfish Lake


Boise Getaway: Sun Valley/Redfish Lake
Summer of Idaho continues! Where else can you ice skate on an OUTDOOR rink in July? In America? Sun Valley Resort! It’s a true treat to be able to ice skate without freezing or even having to wear gloves – although there were some glove wearers. Affect or custom? But hear this: ice skating outdoors in July does not come cheap.